TRNW-2: 10R80 pump bolts

[Dan Hogan]

Steve,

These bolts don’t appear to be TTY  (old or new) and looks like the reason the SI states to replace was the integral seal patch on the original design.

I agree with your conclusion. Use the new factory bolts if your unit has the silicone patch style bolts and if they are already the late design replace the rubber seals with new.

I haven’t seen the precision bolts as we don’t buy aftermarket kits for these as it doesn’t make sense given the current pricing. Thanks for the heads up.

I do advise using a torque wrench for critical fasteners like pump and valvebody bolts and follow the spec in SI. Why not?

—-
Dan Hogan
Buster’s Transmission Service
Matthews, NC 28105
704-847-5321
https://busterstransmissionservice.com

On Apr 10, 2025, at 6:38 AM, Steve Everett via trnw2 <trnw2 at trnw.net> wrote:


 I've used them a couple times and didn't have any issues,   the very first 10R I built I didn't fully engage one of the clutches in the CDF drum and we had to pull it back out, I noticed then the silicone on the bolts was smashed and distorted and basically useless , I had to add silicone to each when I reassembled it,

     The latest Ford pump bolts are 1000% better than those cheap pump bolts in the Precision kits,  I'll never use them again,  Ford bolts are only $1.40 each, and if needed to can easily be reused,   I'm not a fan of Precision kits anyway, and stuff like this is one of the many reasons,

     As far as the torque to yield stuff they said when these came out, and is still repeated to this day,  all the replacement bolts I've seen are steel,  including the cheap ones in the kit I used,   the torque spec is only 20 ft lbs as far as I looked up,  I doubt very seriously those bolts are going to stretch at that low of torque ?   in fact I doubt aluminum bolts would stretch at only 20 ft lbs ?  so some "engineer" who has no grasp of the real world came up with that when designing this unit

   Steve

    Steve

On Thu, Apr 10, 2025 at 6:28 AM Fred Whitaker via trnw2 <trnw2 at trnw.net<mailto:trnw2 at trnw.net>> wrote:
 I have been using the bolts in the precision kits with no problems so far.
________________________________
From: trnw2-bounces at trnw.net<mailto:trnw2-bounces at trnw.net> <trnw2-bounces at trnw.net<mailto:trnw2-bounces at trnw.net>> on behalf of Donald Day via trnw2 <trnw2 at trnw.net<mailto:trnw2 at trnw.net>>
Sent: Wednesday, April 9, 2025 6:15 PM
To: Steve Everett <severett61 at gmail.com<mailto:severett61 at gmail.com>>; Technical Discussion Forum <trnw2 at trnw.net<mailto:trnw2 at trnw.net>>
Subject: Re: TRNW-2: 10R80 pump bolts

Add a4ld washers and use torque wrench


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On Wednesday, April 9, 2025, 9:10 AM, Steve Everett via trnw2 <trnw2 at trnw.net<mailto:trnw2 at trnw.net>> wrote:

I just got 12 new ones from the dealer,  $1.40 each,  the newest ones have a green o'ring on them, some still have the orange o-ring,  I'm putting loctite on the threads  also, just for insurance,  I know I've had to use those ones in the kits a couple times , and didn't have this problem, so I'm not sure what happened, but it's likely I didn't double check them after tightening them initially ?

     Not sure why Ford decided to get away from the aluminum washers they've used on other units ?   or why the aftermarket chose to put that cheap silicone on their replacement bolts ?

   Steve

On Wed, Apr 9, 2025 at 8:40 AM Healy Powertrain <info at healypowertrain.com<mailto:info at healypowertrain.com>> wrote:
I'd use OEM on these:
New Style Bolt (Including Seal):

JL3Z-7N134-A  (each)
(12 needed)



Marcel Verwijmeren
Healy Powertrain
Driveline Solutions
T 06 57745407
E info at healypowertrain.com<mailto:info at healypowertrain.com>
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On Wednesday, April 9, 2025 at 2:00:38 pm +02:00, Steve Everett via trnw2 <trnw2 at trnw.net<mailto:trnw2 at trnw.net>> wrote:
  I just had a 10R80 I built a couple weeks ago come back leaking out the front,  virtually all the pump bolts were loose,  I did not reuse the factory ones, but used the ones in the Precision kits,  which have the cheesey silicone applied around the bolt head,   So either I didn't get them tight enough originally ?  which may simply be what happened, I typically put them in with my speed handle, tighten them with my battery powered impact, and recheck them with my speed handle, but I could have been distracted during that process or pulled off to do something else ?  who knows ?

   What are most of ya'll using on these ?  the later design Ford bolts ?  or using these cheesey ones and maybe adding some locktite or adding a dab of silicone ?

  Steve
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