TRNW-2: 10R80 pump bolts
Steve Everett
severett61 at gmail.com
Wed Apr 9 06:08:56 PDT 2025
I just got 12 new ones from the dealer, $1.40 each, the newest ones have
a green o'ring on them, some still have the orange o-ring, I'm putting
loctite on the threads also, just for insurance, I know I've had to use
those ones in the kits a couple times , and didn't have this problem, so
I'm not sure what happened, but it's likely I didn't double check them
after tightening them initially ?
Not sure why Ford decided to get away from the aluminum washers
they've used on other units ? or why the aftermarket chose to put that
cheap silicone on their replacement bolts ?
Steve
On Wed, Apr 9, 2025 at 8:40 AM Healy Powertrain <info at healypowertrain.com>
wrote:
> I'd use OEM on these:
> New Style Bolt (Including Seal):
>
> JL3Z-7N134-A (each)
> (12 needed)
>
>
>
> Marcel Verwijmeren
> Healy Powertrain
> Driveline Solutions
> T 06 57745407
> E info at healypowertrain.com
> W www.healypowertrain.com
>
>
> On Wednesday, April 9, 2025 at 2:00:38 pm +02:00, Steve Everett via trnw2 <
> trnw2 at trnw.net> wrote:
>
> I just had a 10R80 I built a couple weeks ago come back leaking out the
> front, virtually all the pump bolts were loose, I did not reuse the
> factory ones, but used the ones in the Precision kits, which have the
> cheesey silicone applied around the bolt head, So either I didn't get
> them tight enough originally ? which may simply be what happened, I
> typically put them in with my speed handle, tighten them with my battery
> powered impact, and recheck them with my speed handle, but I could have
> been distracted during that process or pulled off to do something else ?
> who knows ?
>
> What are most of ya'll using on these ? the later design Ford bolts ?
> or using these cheesey ones and maybe adding some locktite or adding a dab
> of silicone ?
>
> Steve
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>
>
>
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